After nearly a month in Hoi An sadly the amazing contract on our flat stating that we should resolve any conflicts with the “spirit of comradeship” had come to an end and it was time to move on. We packed up our bags, said our goodbyes, hopped on a train and waved farewell to this friendly place that had been our home for the last few weeks.

Spending a little more time there allowed us to get to know people just that bit better. The lady down the road who did our laundry, the smiley lady and her daughter on the market who made our breakfast fruit shakes and all the other people from places we frequently cycled past who always had a smile and a wave for us, we’ll miss them all.

But most of all we will miss the people from Karma Waters who were so good to us while we were there. It really was a treat to meet them and to spend so much time chatting, sharing stories and ideas.

Karma Waters

We did so much during our time there. Kayaking, cooking lessons, speed boat trips and an exciting, though unsuccessful trip out on a life boat across the sea to an island. Six foot waves and a tilting boat. Andy and I were soaked head to foot. I was enjoying the ride, popped on a life jacket, clung on to the rails. Woohooo! I only became worried when the people driving the boat said it was too rough, we had to head back. I can’t really describe how amazing it all was.

But amongst the many things we did while we were there the highlights for me must have been Uma’s birthday and the boat race.

Leanne and Uma

Uma is Paul and Duyan’s beautiful daughter and it was her 1st birthday. The 1st birthday is a big deal in Vietnam. Families place a real importance on this day and throw a party to celebrate. Andy and I were really honoured to be invited to this special day.

The head of the district came over to say some prayers and perform a special ceremony. He was a very friendly chap with an Ian Brown haircut and a flat cap, you could tell he was a bit of a dude. Although our lack of Vietnamese meant we couldn’t really speak to him we just got a really good vibe from him. The night we left he came chasing after us to shake our hands and say goodbye.

1st birthday ceremony

With our limited knowledge of Buddhist traditions a lot of what went on went completely over our heads, but it was all very interesting to watch.

The table offerings

Later Uma was sat on the floor with a tray of objects including a model tree, a pen, sweets, paper, a doll, a comb and other various bit and bobs. The belief is that whatever she chooses from the tray will say something about her future. People laughed and shook their heads as she went straight for an enormous lump of sugar, a jelly cup sweet and another wrapped sweet.

Predicting Uma's future

We enjoyed a lovely meal with family and friends and that evening yet more food including a never ending bowl of soup. There must be some invisible marker on the bowl below which if you continue eating you get refilled. Now I was brought up to finish what I had in front of me. You can imagine the cycle of soup this conflict of cultures created. Me politely trying to finish what I was given and he trying to be the good host and make sure I was well fed. Despite repeated attempts to say I really was full the soup kept coming. Andy and I both got caught in the same trap and must have had 10 serving each.

Uma Soup

They followed a similar rule with the beer.The neighbours had come round including an elderly Vietnamese man who seemed set to drink us under the table if we hadn’t have been saved by the lady from next door who insisted we stopped. Each time he took a drink we all cheered and had to do the same. But not only that, if I didn’t drink enough he’d shout at me to drink more. At one point I had to down nearly half my drink!

The next day with beery heads we all set out to watch a boat race to commemorate 50 years since Ho Chi Minh went to Cham Island. This was an incredible thing to see! Despite the fact that it was raining quite heavily and the boat race was taking place at 9am on a normal working day the entire town seemed to have decided not to bother going to work and had turned out to watch. Thousands of people lined the banks of the river, some sitting on the edge, some clinging from coconut trees, others, like us, lined up along the water edge in boats of all shapes and sizes.

Big boat with Uncle Ho

People went crazy shouting and screaming for their own local team. It all seemed very competitive. It was like the Oxford-Cambridge Boat Race gone mad. A chaotic crowd of red flag flying locals edged out into the river throwing water at rival village’s boats. It all got a bit hairy at one point and a few empty bottles and melon rinds were also spotted flying through the air. Brilliant.

Hoi An boat race

After all this it was really sad to leave. I really hope one day to visit again. Many thanks to Paul, Duyen and all the staff for all the amazing times we had and everything you taught us.